成衣設(shè)計項目教學

通過企業(yè)實例展現(xiàn)成衣設(shè)計過程，配合企業(yè)品牌定位，全面詮釋成衣設(shè)計內(nèi)涵；

來自企業(yè)的實踐經(jīng)驗——從設(shè)計調(diào)研到設(shè)計概念，再到最后工藝制作、產(chǎn)品推廣，實現(xiàn)完整的成衣設(shè)計與制作過程；以項目任務的形式，做系統(tǒng)性、實戰(zhàn)性和可操作性的講解。

成衣設(shè)計，作為成衣產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈中重要的一環(huán)，兼具設(shè)計的藝術(shù)性與市場性。市場化的企業(yè)運作方式?jīng)Q定成衣設(shè)計師必須熟知市場運作規(guī)律，能夠結(jié)合市場需求和企業(yè)的生產(chǎn)特點進行設(shè)計，同時能夠很好地與相關(guān)部門溝通協(xié)作。

本書共9章：第1章 成衣設(shè)計項目任務綜述，闡述成衣設(shè)計項目任務的特點和過程、認知設(shè)計、成衣與成衣設(shè)計、成衣產(chǎn)業(yè)、成衣設(shè)計項目的基本概念；第2章 任務一：項目調(diào)研，了解設(shè)計項目調(diào)研的基本內(nèi)容和方法，以有效的方式依照程序進行市場調(diào)研，遵照服裝流行的規(guī)律，運用流行信息來源搜集有效資訊作為產(chǎn)品開發(fā)的依據(jù)；第3章 任務二：確定設(shè)計主題，針對品牌和產(chǎn)品的

風格、消費群體等多方面進行定位，為設(shè)計任務確定本季產(chǎn)品明確的主題；第4章 任務三：款式設(shè)計，設(shè)計新一季產(chǎn)品結(jié)構(gòu)，進行分類設(shè)計、基本款設(shè)計和款式系列設(shè)計；第5章 任務四：色彩搭配，運用色彩規(guī)律及流行色彩進行服裝整體性配色；第6章 任務五：面輔料的應用，根據(jù)款式要求選擇相應的面輔料；第7章 任務六：紙樣設(shè)計，準確制定服裝的尺寸規(guī)格，進行成衣制板，計算用料率并進行排料，合理編制所加工服裝的工藝順序和標準；第8章 任務七：工藝設(shè)計，進一步進行服裝面輔料裁剪、排料及樣衣的縫制；第9章 任務八：設(shè)計發(fā)布，采用多種宣傳方式向消費者和市場傳達品牌的理念、展示該季的產(chǎn)品，將產(chǎn)品順利推向市場。

本書注重成衣設(shè)計產(chǎn)品開發(fā)的操作過程，在側(cè)重能力實踐的同時適當佐之以相應理論知識，適應當代服裝職業(yè)教育的需求。

本書由豐蔚任主編，馬淑燕、林璐、陳靜任副主編，另外參加部分編寫工作的還有劉錢洲、遲玲玲、張偉利等。

編者

2010年3月

第 1 章 成衣設(shè)計項目任務綜述 ················ 1
■ 1.1 認知設(shè)計 ··········································2
■ 1.2 成衣與成衣設(shè)計 ·································4
■ 1.3 成衣產(chǎn)業(yè) ··········································6
1.3.1 產(chǎn)業(yè)概述 ··········································································6
1.3.2 成衣設(shè)計公司中的設(shè)計團隊 ··········································7
■ 1.4 成衣設(shè)計項目 ····································8
1.4.1 成衣設(shè)計項目工作過程 ··················································8
1.4.2 成衣設(shè)計的周期 ······························································8
第 2 章 任務一：項目調(diào)研 ·····················13
■ 2.1 產(chǎn)品定位 ········································14
2.1.1 確立目標消費群體 ························································15
2.1.2 設(shè)計風格定位 ································································17
2.1.3 設(shè)定品種類型 ································································18
2.1.4 明確產(chǎn)品生產(chǎn)與銷售方式 ············································20
■ 2.2 市場調(diào)研 ········································21
2.2.1 市場調(diào)研方式 ·································································21
2.2.2 市場調(diào)研內(nèi)容 ·································································22
■ 2.3 流行趨勢 ········································33
2.3.1 流行周期 ········································································34
2.3.2 獲取流行趨勢的途徑和渠道 ········································35
2.3.3 完成為設(shè)計任務服務的流行趨勢報告 ························39
2.3.4 流行趨勢報告 ································································44
2.3.5 流行趨勢報告案例 ························································44
第 3 章 任務二：確定設(shè)計主題 ···············49
■ 3.1 設(shè)計主題的概念 ·······························50
3.1.1 為什么確立設(shè)計主題 ····················································50
3.1.2 設(shè)計主題 ········································································50
■ 3.2 設(shè)計主題的確定 ·······························54
■ 3.3 設(shè)計主題的確定方法 ·························60
3.3.1 調(diào)研法 ············································································60
3.3.2 類比法 ············································································60
3.3.3 延伸法 ············································································60
3.3.4 歸納法 ···········································································60
■ 3.4 設(shè)計主題案例 ·································60
3.4.1 品牌定位 ········································································60
3.4.2 消費群體 ········································································61
3.4.3 確定設(shè)計主題 ································································61
第 4 章 任務三：款式設(shè)計 ·····················65
■ 4.1 款式分類設(shè)計 ··································66
4.1.1 分類設(shè)計的概念與意義 ················································66
4.1.2 服裝大類分類 ································································66
4.1.3 服裝細節(jié)分類 ································································66
■ 4.2 基本款設(shè)計 ·····································73
4.2.1 基本款的概念 ································································73
4.2.2 基本款的確定 ·······························································74
4.2.3 基本款的種類與風格 ····················································74
4.2.4 案例 ···············································································77
■ 4.3 款式系列設(shè)計 ··································77
4.3.1 款式系列設(shè)計的概念與意義 ········································77
4.3.2 款式系列設(shè)計的原則 ····················································78
4.3.3 款式系列設(shè)計的特點 ····················································79
4.3.4 款式系列設(shè)計的常用手法 ············································79
4.3.5 款式系列設(shè)計的表現(xiàn)形式： ········································80
2
■ 4.4 基本款設(shè)計案例 ·······························81
第 5 章 任務四：色彩搭配 ·····················83
■ 5.1 認識色彩 ········································84
■ 5.2 色彩搭配 ········································86
■ 5.3 流行色與常規(guī)色 ·······························97
5.3.1 流行色 ············································································97
5.3.2 常規(guī)色 ············································································97
5.3.3 流行色預測 ····································································97
■ 5.4 案例分析 ········································99
第 6 章 任務五：面輔料的應用 ············· 103
■ 6.1 服裝面輔料 ··································· 104
6.1.1 面料分類 ······································································104
6.1.2 輔料分類 ······································································105
■ 6.2 面輔料的選擇與運用 ······················· 107
6.2.1 面輔料的選擇 ······························································108
6.2.2 常見面料風格 ······························································109
■ 6.3 面料的再創(chuàng)造 ································ 110
■ 6.4 案例 ············································ 112
第 7 章 任務六：紙樣設(shè)計 ··················· 115
■ 7.1 認知紙樣設(shè)計 ································ 116
7.1.1 人體測量與服裝規(guī)格 ··················································117
7.1.2 認知成衣紙樣制圖 ······················································119
7.1.3 常用制圖符號說明與規(guī)范 ··········································122
■ 7.2 成衣紙樣設(shè)計流程 ·························· 122
7.2.1 上衣原型制板 ······························································122
7.2.2 大身結(jié)構(gòu) ······································································124
7.2.3 局部結(jié)構(gòu)運用 ······························································126
■ 7.3 紙樣設(shè)計應用篇 ····························· 142
7.3.1 連衣裙 ··········································································142
7.3.2 襯衫 ············································································144
7.3.3 夾克 ··············································································147
7.3.4 套裝 ··············································································149
■ 7.4 成衣工業(yè)制板 ································ 149
7.4.1 產(chǎn)品設(shè)計開發(fā)流程 ······················································150
7.4.2 成衣工業(yè)制板 ······························································151
第 8 章 任務七：工藝設(shè)計 ··················· 157
■ 8.1 工藝設(shè)計 ······································ 158
8.1.1 概念及內(nèi)容介紹 ··························································158
8.1.2 內(nèi)容分析 ······································································158
8.1.3 案例分析 ······································································161
■ 8.2 工序設(shè)計 ······································ 161
8.2.1 概念及內(nèi)容介紹 ··························································161
8.2.2 工序流程圖分析 ··························································166
■ 8.3 服裝制板、工藝設(shè)計及流程分析案例 ·· 167
第 9 章 任務八：設(shè)計發(fā)布 ··················· 179
■ 9.1 靜態(tài)設(shè)計發(fā)布 ································ 180
9.1.1 櫥窗展示 ······································································180
9.1.2 平面宣傳 ······································································181
■ 9.2 動態(tài)設(shè)計發(fā)布 ······························· 183
9.2.1 訂貨會 ··········································································183
9.2.2 品評會 ·········································································183
9.2.3 博覽會 ··········································································184
9.2.4 發(fā)布會 ··········································································184
附 錄 ·········································· 187
■ 參考文獻 ············································· 188
■ 作者簡介 ············································· 188